Cosmetic Tattooing Among Females in Oklahoma: Motivations for Pain
and Permanence
Jodie Smithey
&
Philip D. Holley
E-mail: pholley@telepath.com
C & H Research Consultants, Inc.
P. O. Box 2072
Weatherford, OK 73096
Paper presented that the Annual Meetings of the
Oklahoma Sociological Association
Edmond, OK
November 9, 2001
Abstract
Tattooing has become increasingly popular among women during the last few
years. Art works located on the arms, back, chest and stomach, and
legs are found on many middle class women. Even in a state (i.e., Oklahoma)
where tattooing is illegal and women are required to travel to an adjoining
state in order to obtain a legal tattoo, many women have acquired tattoos
on visible and not so visible parts of their bodies.
There appears to be increasing numbers of women who are ascending to a new
level of tattooing and acquiring facial or cosmetic tattoos. These
are either legally or non-legally acquired tattoos on the face-on the lips
and around the eyes. The tattoos are intended to replace temporarily
applied and reapplied cosmetics.
The exploratory study builds on the previous research of Holley dealing with
female body modification. It examined 10 western Oklahoma women volunteers
acquired through a snowball sampling technique begun with principal investigator
who has previously acquired cosmetic tattooing.
We examined selected demographic characteristics of the subjects, the procedures
the women had obtained, and the immediate effects. Motivations included
vanity--accentuate features, minimize make-up application time, and feel
better about the self-and non-vanity factors-social connections, poor vision,
costs and convenience, and cost savings. Most of the subjects were
happy with the procedures and would recommend them to others.
Introduction
Body modification in recent years has sprung into
popular culture with fervor (Holley, 2000, 1999). However, a particular
type of tattooing--cosmetic tattooing--has become increasingly visible as
well. Cosmetic tattooing, or dermapigmentation, is an extension of the physical
art form of tattooing that involves the application of permanent ink to areas
of the face (Krakow, 1994). These facial areas where the ink is applied
are located where one would normally apply makeup. The most frequent
and popular choices for placement of cosmetic tattoos are as eyeliner, lipliner,
or for definition and thickening of sparse eyebrows (Cardozo, 1994).
There is no disagreement among those who possess
tattoos that it is a painful and often lengthy process. Cosmetic tattooing
proves no different. However, there is one significant difference between
cosmetic and other tattooing. Typically a surface anesthetic is used
to dull the pain, usually Novocaine (“Cosmetic Tattooing: Fact Sheet,” 2001).
“Permanent makeup is applied [just like any other tattoo] with a handheld
device that pierces the skin hundreds of times per minute…the process usually
lasts about two hours…and follow up sessions are recommended” (Cardozo, 1994).
Follow-up sessions are necessary to make sure the client is satisfied and
to touch up areas that may need to be darkened or perhaps lines that need
to be more defined. After the cosmetics are applied, the client’s face
usually swells around the area of the tattoo and scabs form over the tattoos
as well (Cardozo, 1994). The after effects of dermapigmentation normally
disappear after about a week. When the process is complete, the client
ends up with makeup that does not smudge, does not have to be reapplied everyday,
and is the color of the client’s choosing. Although cosmetic tattooing
is called permanent, it usually lasts from three to ten years (“Permanent
May Not Be Perfect,” 2001) because the colors may fade over time. A
touch up is typically recommended after about five years (“Cosmetic Tattooing:
Fact Sheet,” 2001).
Research Questions and Purpose of the Paper
Since cosmetic tattooing replaces the necessity
of application of certain makeup, these procedures would obviously be most
desirable for women. Therein lies the purpose of this paper: Who are
these women that are acquiring cosmetic tattooing? What type of demographic
background do they represent? What are their motivations for doing so?
How do they feel about themselves now that they have facial tattoos?
Would the subjects be likely to seek additional tattoo procedures?
And, would they recommend the procedure to others they know?
Literature Review
From the beginning of documented history people
have tattooed themselves for a number of reasons: to show a hierarchical
status, to portray hunting prowess, or to accentuate sexuality. Even
women have engaged in these tattooing practices to make themselves more sexually
appealing to their counterparts. According to Brain (1979), the Maori
tribal women of New Zealand have, for many generations, tattooed their lips
with ink in order to accentuate their features. In Polynesia women
have been known to stain their lips and even their teeth to attract men.
Throughout China and Korea tattooing of the eyebrows and eyelids is an age-old
practice seen as fashionable and attractive (Boyles & Clark, 1996; Krakow,
1994). In America, women acquiring tattoos has caught on relatively
late in comparison with the rest of the world, but it is gaining widespread
popularity. “In the past 20 years the number of women obtaining tattoos
[cosmetic included] has quadrupled; now almost half of all tattoos are being
done on women” (Armstrong, 1991). According to a recent study conducted
by the American Society for Aesthetic and Plastic Surgery, more than 20 million
cosmetic procedures were performed in 1997 (Smith, 2001). The study
included tattoo procedures and plastic surgery. By current estimates
the permanent makeup industry alone brings in $15 million annually with obviously
an overwhelming majority of it’s clientele being women (Cardozo, 1994).
Even in Oklahoma, where cosmetic tattooing has only been legal since the
spring of 2000, cosmetic tattoo shops are springing up in even the smallest
towns (Permanent may not be perfect.).
The cosmetic tattooing industry is so relatively
new that there is little documentation to be found on the subject. However,
the information available helps to shed light on the mysteries of the “hype”
over cosmetic tattooing is about and who has the procedures done.
Cosmetic tattooing is not a viable option for some
because of the cost and pain involved. On average the procedures cost
around $500 for eyeliner or eyebrows and around $750 for lip liner (Cardozo,
1994). Depending on where and how the tattoos are done the prices may
vary. The cosmetic procedure is potentially painful and frightening.
Although a topical anesthetic is typically applied beforehand to numb the
desired areas, it largely depends on the pain tolerance of the individual
(Cardozo, 1994). It is surprising to note that the lips are the most
sensitive area to tattoo and not the eyes (Cardozo, 1994). However,
despite the cost and discomfort, many women are beginning to explore the
convenience of a “wash and wear face” (Cardozo, 1994).
Permanent makeup is meant to provide a refined look
that will enhance the facial features without the need for a lot of traditional
makeup (Cosmetic tattooing and permanent makeup). This simple fact
is the allure for many women. According to Marshall (2001), “anyone
desiring to save time applying makeup; allergic to traditional cosmetics;
active in sports; or manually, physically, or visually impaired can benefit
from permanent cosmetics.” Bragg (1999) asserts that all women are
“constantly looking for ways” to apply makeup in as little time as possible,
furthermore, they seek to avoid all the necessary “rigors” of daily makeup
application (Cosmetic tattooing and permanent makeup.) Cosmetic tattooing,
in addition to saving time spent in the bathroom every morning, can even
save money that would otherwise be spent on buying assorted shades of eyeliners,
lip liners, and eyebrow pencils (Smith, 2001). Another motivator for
acquiring cosmetic tattooing is the reality that some women have difficulty
applying makeup themselves or suffer from other diseases that would make
cosmetic tattooing a welcome alternative (Smith, 2001). “Permanent
makeup is a boon to women who, due to arthritis or Parkinson’s disease, no
longer have the manual dexterity to apply makeup” (Cardozo, 1994).
In an article by Manley (2001), a woman suffering from Alopecia, a condition
which causes all body hair to fall out, was motivated to getting permanent
cosmetics so she could once again have eyebrows and the appearance of eyelashes.
She reported that having the procedure made “her life a little easier and
gave her a greater sense of freedom” (Manley, 2001). The vast majority
of women who receive cosmetic tattooing, however, just seem to want to save
time and still look their best (Cardozo, 1994).
Tattoos are not just for those on the fringes of
society, especially the cosmetic kind. A large number of women are getting
tattoos, although it appears that many more older women are getting tattoos
as well. These women clients of cosmetic tattoo shops seem to be more
the “country club set” who are “upscale, hipper, more educated, and moneyed”
(Singer, 2001; Krakow, 1994). One tattoo artist states that she provides
the procedure for many older women who have lost the line around the lips,
have smudge problems with makeup, and women who just want to enhance what
is naturally there (Smith, 2001). In one report the average age of
a cosmetic tattoo shop customer is between the ages of 45-65 and is seeking
to look younger and to slow the effects of aging (Singer, 2001). It
certainly seems that many women, older ones in particular, would be drawn
to permanent cosmetics because of its ease and its lack of maintenance.
Krakow purports rather bluntly that “as an aging population of baby boomers
begins to require magnifying mirrors and reading glasses, it is easy to see
why cosmetic tattooing is a growing trend (1994). No matter whether
one in younger or older, and no matter what her motivation(s) may be, cosmetic
tattooing is “here to stay” and is spreading wildly (Marshall, 2001).
Cosmetic tattooing is not recommended for everyone.
Experts recommend that women talk to others they know who have had the procedure
done to make sure that they want it, who they should go to, and what to expect.
It is advised to ask a lot of questions, get plenty of references, and check
out pictures of past work when looking for the right cosmetic tattooist (Marshall,
2001). It is also a good idea to find a tattooist who has a well-established
enterprise and has many satisfied customers to show for it (Cardozo, 1994).
In addition, if an individual has a tendency for skin irritation or fever
blisters, she should see a doctor to get a prescription of antibiotics beforehand
to prevent any breakouts or infections (Cardozo, 1994). Inherent in
the idea of getting a permanent tattoo on one’s face lies the possibility
of sub-standard work, unhappy clients, or an unprofessional environment;
however, these cases are vastly outnumbered by positive results. It
is asserted that most clients are happy with their facial tattoos and are
usually even happier to show them off to others (Marshall, 2001).
Methodology
This research is an exploratory study building on
previous research carried out by Holley (2000, 1999), where he examined tattoos
(and jewelry placed in piercings) as a part of the larger cultural phenomenon
of body modification. The first author’s interest in the topic stems
from her own personal experience with having tattoos and cosmetic tattoos.
This experience consists of having acquired decorative tattoos as well as
having recently acquired cosmetic tattoos.
The population for the study is comprised
of female volunteers age 18 and over who have acquired permanent facial tattoos.
No other demographic characteristics were required for participation.
All volunteers were secured from a small town in Western Oklahoma, utilizing
a snowball technique begun with the contacts of the first author (Williams,
Unrau, & Grinnell, 1998). Contacts were made via her social networks
in the community in which she lives and where the cosmetic tattoos were acquired.
This study is not intended for generalization to the entire
population since no effort has been made to acquire a representative sample.
The research was carried our during the Fall, 2001, time period.
The researchers secured 10 subjects to participate in
one-on-one interviews conducted by the first author. The subjects,
interviewed at various locations (i.e., homes or workplaces) for an average
of 30 minutes, answered a series of open and closed ended questions.
Demographically, we were interested in the approximate age of subjects and
their socioecomonic status. Questions focused on descriptions of the
tattoo procedures, including location and extent of tattoos, costs, etc.
We asked questions that examined motivations for these permanent facial tattoos
and subjects’ levels of satisfaction with the procedures and outcomes. Also,
we asked if they would recommend the procedure to others and if they believed
they would likely acquire more cosmetic tattoos in the future.
The research was carried out independent and separate
from the university with which we are affiliated.
Findings
This section will summarize the research
findings. All of the participants obtained their tattoos in the town
in which they live. This is the only tattoo establishment in the town
and in the area.
Selected Demographic Characteristics
The age range of the 10 female participants was 38-61. It appears that
tattooing, specifically the cosmetic variety, is not just for younger individuals
who dare to be different. A majority of respondents were career-oriented,
professional women who come from middle to upper socioeconomic status.
These women are well-educated and well-established. They typically
spent considerable time thinking about getting the tattoos, planning where
on their faces they would get them, and researching the person who would
perform the procedure. In no way did these women indicate that their
decisions for receiving these tattoos were impulsive or uncalculated.
Procedures Obtained
The subjects varied as to the tattoo procedure received
and the stage of the process in which they were located. Four of the
women obtained the tattoo procedure on the eye area (i.e., top and/or bottom
eyelids, and eyebrows) only, while one subject obtained the procedures for
the lips (i.e., the outline of both upper and lower lips are tattooed).
Five women had procedures done on both eyes and lips, with a combination
of top and bottom eyelids and/or eyebrows, and lip liner. One subject,
in addition to having top and bottom eyeliner, received what is known as
the “wet” tattoo. This consists of the tattoo being applied to the
part of the eyelids that is continuously “wet” since it remains in contact
with the eyeball. It was recommended in all cases that the woman return
to the establishment for a routine “retouch” after four to six weeks, at
no additional charge.
The time period during which the procedures were obtained
ranged from two years prior to being interviewed to as recently as a few
weeks ago. For three of the ten subjects, insufficient time has elapsed
for acquiring the “retouch.”
Description of the Procedure
All subjects had the painkiller, Novocaine, applied topically
to the area being tattooed about 30 minutes prior to the work being started.
For a single procedure, the time required was about an hour. Each additional
procedure typically required another hour.
All women who obtained tattoos on the lips reported pain
ranging from mild to severe during the procedure. Women who had tattoos
elsewhere reported mild discomfort while the procedure was taking place.
According to the subjects, additional painkiller was made available when
they began to feel uncomfortable with the pain.
All respondents indicated that they began to swell in
the tattooed area after the procedure was completed, and that the area was
sensitive for about a week. Swelling in the area of the eye caused
some blurring of vision for a couple of days. After the swelling subsided,
no respondent reported any lasting pain-related side-effects.
Motivations and Justifications
The motivations and justifications of these respondents
for acquisition of permanent cosmetic tattoos were primarily a consensus
of reasons based in two categories: vanity and non-vanity. Vanity motivations
include (1) accentuate features, (2) minimize make-up application time, and
(3) feel better about the self. Non-vanity motivations include (1)
social connections, poor vision, (3) costs and convenience, and (4) cost
savings. The most common motivations will be reported here, beginning
with the vanity motivations.
Accentuate features. For the women who received
the tattooing procedure on their lips, the primary motivational factor was
to make the lips appear bigger. Also in those who had tattooed eyeliner
and eyebrows, the women wanted to make their eyes “stand out.” One
woman reported that since she had such light colored eyelashes, she felt
it was necessary to have eyeliner in order to make her eyes more visible.
Another respondent asserted that women naturally want to accentuate their
best facial features and that cosmetic tattooing is a good way to achieve
that goal.
Minimize makeup application time. All study
participants expressed the dislike of spending long amounts of time engaged
in the conventional makeup application process. Essentially all respondents
desired maximum output with regard to the appearance of their faces, but
with minimum effort. With the aid of cosmetic tattoos it is no longer
necessary to spend extra time lining the eyes or lips. As one woman
stated, “it just simplifies the whole process so you can go on about you
day.”
Feel better about self. A few respondents
said that their motivations for the cosmetic tattoos were to feel better
about themselves and to boost their self-esteem. As women get older
they are even more conscious of wanting to look good in public and not fear
that the aging process is taking over. Most respondents expressed this
sentiment and further reported that the cosmetic tattooing was successful
in this particular goal because the tattooing added fine lines while minimizing
wrinkles around the lips and eyes. These women also said that their
tattoos made them feel better about themselves because they were able to
wear less makeup and still felt that they looked their best. One even stated
that she felt she could go to the grocery store without any makeup on and
still give everyone the illusion that she did have it on. That fact made
her feel that the tattooing was the best thing she has ever done for herself.
Now we move forward to non-vanity motivations among
the female participants.
Social connections. A majority of respondents
saw the procedure on others they knew. They liked the results on other
women and decided to have the tattoos done. Furthermore, in half of
the women interviewed, they knew one or more women who made appointments
to get tattoos the very next day after having shown their own personal results
and sharing their own experiences. (Note: The first author, upon seeing
her mother with cosmetic tattoos, made an appointment to have the procedure
done as well.)
Poor vision. A couple of respondents reported
that having poor eyesight was a definite motivational factor. When
one has this problem it is very difficult to apply certain kinds of makeup,
especially the fine lines required for eyeliner, eyebrows, and lip liner.
According to these women, having the cosmetic tattoos was a tremendous help
to them because they eliminate the need for “squinting in the mirror” or
“using a magnifyer.”
Costs and Convenience. In some areas of the country,
getting a cosmetic tattoo is quite expensive. The small Oklahoma town
establishment afforded the subjects the opportunity to get the procedures
done locally and at a lesser cost than had they been required to travel to
the Oklahoma City area, located over 100 miles away. Respondents typically
paid about $150-175 per area of the face tattooed, which is significantly
below what has been reported in the literature. The majority of the
women considered the price they paid affordable and well worth it.
Cost Savings. Although reported by a few women, cost savings
is of some relevance. Two women stated that getting cosmetic tattooing
would save money in the future by eliminating the need for a plethora of
shades of various pencils used for lining purposes. Based on the above
discussion, is clear that these subjects are frugal rather than of limited
means.
Current Feelings About the Cosmetic Tattoos
In 100% of the subjects, all the women who received permanent
eyeliner or eyebrows were extremely happy with their decisions. Repeatedly
the subjects provided the simple response, “I just love it.” All the
women reported that the tattooing accomplished what they had intended, regardless
of their specific motivations.
Two of the subjects who obtained the lip liner procedure were not pleased
with the final results. For them the experience was both painful and
failed to achieve the desired results. For these women, the tattoo
lines were uneven and too bright. Although the others who obtained
this procedure complained that it was uncomfortable, they reported being
delighted with the results.
For our subjects, the potential outcomes tended to outweigh the risks and
the pain involved.
Possibility of Future Cosmetic Tattoos
Nine of the 10 subjects indicated they expected to have
more cosmetic tattooing done in the future. Generally the subjects
desired the lines a little darker, a little thicker, or tailored to their
specific desires. Some of the women with one area tattooed (i.e., lips
only) desired other areas to be tattooed. One woman commented that
she had been back after the “retouch” in order to have her eyeliner darkened
and thickened. Another suggested the possibility of returning to have
her entire lips filled in with the same color with which they were lined.
One other woman stated that when she had her “retouch” on the bottom eyeliner
that she would also add eyeliner to the top of her eyelids. The one
subject who did not want future tattoos is one of the subject’s unhappy about
the work on her lips.
Recommendation of the Procedure to Others
When asked if they would recommend the procedure to others,
eight of the women replied that they would definitely recommend it.
One woman stated, “It is a wonderful thing to wake up and already have makeup
on. Every woman should get this done.” Some of the subjects added
that getting cosmetic tattoos is a very personal act that is dependent on
the wishes of the person, yet they indicated that the procedures are well
worth the initial discomfort. Additional comments focused on the need
to check with a physician prior to seeking these tattoos if one is prone
to fever blisters or skin irritations. The two women who
would not recommend the procedure to others asserted that the procedure is
risky if not done properly. They went on to recommend that anyone considering
these tattoos make certain that the tattoos are to be done by a professional.
Conclusions
Facial cosmetic tattooing is of recent yet increasing
popularity in the US, and in Oklahoma. It is likely that
this activity will continue to increase for woman of all ages. The
unique social values that underpin popular culture enable women not affiliated
with the Hell’s Angels or street gangs to obtain tattoos. Although
not readily noticeable until pointed out by the woman, the “wearer” of cosmetic
tattoos might be one’s grandmother or daughter. Like others with decorative
tattoos placed on the body, out of general view of the public, women with
cosmetic tattoos
The women we studied, while not a representative sample,
provide useful information about their experiences. Most are older
adults, middle to upper middle class, with about half having the procedure
done on the lips or eyes only, while the other half had had the procedures
done on both lips and eyes. The subjects plan additional procedures
in the future and most would recommend the procedure for others. Motivations
included vanity--accentuate features, minimize make-up application time,
and feel better about the self-and non-vanity factors-social connections,
poor vision, costs and convenience, and cost savings. Motivations of
the women were clear: they wanted cosmetic tattoos to make themselves
feel more at ease, to wake up looking beautiful, and to be able to spend
less time in the bathroom-in front of a mirror-putting on makeup.
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